F-150 install ideas

[Jb1rd]

Hi All,
I have thought and thought and can't think anymore! My current set up is with the radio mounted to the top of the cab, amp sits on the floor board hump. Jumper runs along the inside trim of the top of cab by the rear view mirror over to driver side, down the door(cab) trim to the bottom of the dash, across to amp. This isn't really an option with new coax(lmr400). So what I have been wanting to do is mount my new radio on the floor board hump, run the jumper under the bench seat to amp behind the seat and then from there out to antenna. Was going to add a battery or two behind the seat next to the amp. Short wire runs for the amp and radio. Problems are, I think I can slide the seat up one click which I don't think will be enough room for the amp or battery. Putting the extra batteries in the bed under my toolbox wouldn't be a problem either except for building a box for them to sit in. I thought the amp would fit and it looked like it was going to till I cut a piece of cardboard to make sure. I guess I could mount it sideways to the back of the cab, but don't like that idea of it let alone trying to get my hand in between the bed and cab. I would prefer to keep the amp out of sight, have even considered trying to find out if under the seat is hollow or not. The only other thing I can really think of doing is trying to find some bucket seats, but that takes more $$$ than I have. Toolbox is loaded so can't go in there, but if under the seat is hollow there's a possibility. Overhead mount? I think that would be chancy and 4 nuts sticking out the top of the cab? The amp is a sweet 16 and truck is a standard cab. I'm open to all suggestions if anyone has any. Thanks, Mike

[Jb1rd]

It should say dollars I don't have

['Doc]

I think you are finding yourself in the same spot a lot of other people have been in at one time or another. Sometimes there just ain't no room to do what you want to do. Simplest answer is to swap for an extended-cab, jerk all that stuff back there out and build in what you want. Didn't say cheap, just simple!
Some things that I've found out over the years, not particularly applicable to your situation, but still something to think about.
Ain't gonna be no batteries in an enclosed space that I occupy too. Sorry, just not going to happen. I've seen too much of the bad consequences of that, just not worth it.
If it won't fit under that tool box, how about on top, or in front/back of it? All kinds of 'extra' problems with that, but at least an option.
Under a seat is a possibility, but maybe not the best one in the world. Don't know about Fords, but Chevy's have things under there that definitely do not like RF. Even if there's nothing under there, heat sink fins and foam don't exactly 'like' each other. If you happen to have 'larger' friends who ride with you, them fins and foam will become acquainted. Not to mention a sort of 'firm' ride for your really 'larger' friends.
Nothing wrong with most changes, or up-grades, but sometimes it's easier to just leave stuff alone, you know?
- 'Doc


and if you ever figure out where to squeeze everything in, please let me know! Waiting with 'baited' breath...

[Jb1rd]

Thanks Doc, I guess for the time being I'll see about getting something rigged up for the batteries and put it under the toolbox, no one's in the truck but me, LOL so I don't think that will be a problem. It would work behind the seat, just to hard to get a nut on the end of the bolts, really don't want to do any cutting and welding, so that would leave the bucket seats. Gonna run out to the machine shop tomorrow and see if he might have any ideas, sometimes he gets more involved in the project than I do. Mike

[Tugboat]

In my 2005 150 I put it on top of the dash there is a tray there. I lifted the rubber mat and put a hole for the wiring used wall mollies it mount the bracket with. When not in use i put a western hat over the unit and you don't see the unit.

[Slim Pickins]

I am having the same problem just trying to fit the new radio I am getting in my 2000 F150.

[fireguy2002]

It would work behind the seat, just to hard to get a nut on the end of the bolts,

I'm new so forgive me but, would self tapping screws do what you're wanting with bolts? Do you have a full bench? if you have the 40/20/40, the middle seat could come out. Or raised on blocks. Just my $.02

[Jb1rd]

Hello, finally back to work and online again. Doc, I found some really nice bucket seats out of a 97 mustang that replaced the bench seat so now I have lots of room in the truck! Finally got an upgraded alt as well. Using self tapers had crossed my mind but the amp isn't light and it being jarred loose or falling was my main concern there. My amp's a little to big to sit on my radio, I got a sweet sixteen that i'll be using I thought I mentioned it, but I didn't my bad. Mine is a 96 with no headliner which really helps out, I didn't think I would find buckets for it and did which really opened up the inside. Once it starts to warm up, gonna see about getting it all in there. Mike

[jessejamesdallas]

As for mounting the radio, one thing you could do is stick the radio on a Pedestal Mount. You can buy these things on eBay or make one your self out of stuff you probably already have lying around the house...I made these mounts from stuff I already had...Predator 10K antenna shafts and some other junk...


And this one is sorta hard to see because I also mounted my external speaker and in-line power filter to the pedestal also!


Now the Amp can be mounted to the back of the cab behind the seat right under the back window if you want, It doesn't has to sit flat...The Amp cant tell the difference if it's sitting flat or upside down or sideways! Only thing that you need to do is make sure it's well vented so it doesn't get too hot! (don't have the seat right up next to it)

Now for you extra battery's...DO NOT STICK THEM INSIDE THE CAB WITH YOU! When they get HOT (specially in the Summer) they can vent gas...They need to be in a vented area or a sealed box that vents to the outside. Best bet would be to stick them in some of those plastic battery box's like used in boats, and anchor them down in the bed under your toolbox.

In my Suburban, What I ended up having to do is build a box, and then drill holes in the floor board and run PCV pipe out under the bottom of the truck to vent the Gas.

Battery box holds up to 4 12v battery's...Under the lid of the box I put some stick-on weather striping to make sure the box is well sealed, and silicon around where the PVC pipes go in...


Exhaust PVC pipes under the truck...The "Intake" pipe faces to the front of the truck, and catches enough air while driving to force any gas build up out the the other pipe.

[Jb1rd]

Thanks for the pics jessejames, the first photo is how I've been thinking about getting it all in there. Mount the radio on the hump and the amp in between the seat or behind them. My first install had the radio mounted to the top of the cab, and my small amp on the hump. Something that has been rolling around in my head is power wire routing for the amp and extra bats. The power wires for the radio will be a piece of cake to run, but not sure how to do the amp wiring. The way it looks I would have to run the power wires along side the inner fender then bring them a lot closer to the exhaust manifold than I want to then under the cab and up through the groumet holes-only thng thats really been bothering me is how close the wires will be, but maybe I'm overlooking an easier route. Mike

[beef15]

Hole saw and grommets. If you're running cable large enough to not be able to route it at will and use an existing grommet to get into the cab then sacrifices have to be made and it'll be a little sheetmetal from the firewall, no big deal as long as you check carefully to make sure the back side is clear before drilling, no one will notice when its time to sell the rig if there's an extra plug in the firewall. Sounds like you found a solution to amp mounting but just food for thought there is a fastener called a rivnut, goes in like a pop rivet but the inside is threaded, availible in steel and aluminum in a variety of threads up to atleast 3/8, they are priceless when dealing with blindholes or difficult access, like the back wall of a cab.