bird meters in the mobile..worth the trouble???
bird meters in the mobile..worth the trouble???
i fianly got around to picking up the dual line section and slugs for my bird but i got to thinking..man is it realy worth the trouble to put it in the mobile? im gonna be running 2k constantly and at times up to 6k or 7k with my 32pill and ild like to be able to keep a moniter on things and i know a bird is the best way to do it.
ive got the so239's on on my bird rig,should i use the same 9913 coax for the jumpers or use something beter? i got a good deal on all of it. i bought the '43 off a buddy for $100 and i bough the dual line section and slugs off another buddy for $75.00. so i dont have much money in it and i wanna use it. any advice for hooking it up and what not. should i use the 43 case or get one of the dual meter panels that i seen on a sponsors site and hard mount them in my control pod that i built to hold my remotes and voltage regulators?? thanks in advance...jas.
ive got the so239's on on my bird rig,should i use the same 9913 coax for the jumpers or use something beter? i got a good deal on all of it. i bought the '43 off a buddy for $100 and i bough the dual line section and slugs off another buddy for $75.00. so i dont have much money in it and i wanna use it. any advice for hooking it up and what not. should i use the 43 case or get one of the dual meter panels that i seen on a sponsors site and hard mount them in my control pod that i built to hold my remotes and voltage regulators?? thanks in advance...jas.
If your really planning on running a 32 pill, a Bird Meter is not a "if" but a must!!!! Boxes get expensive in a hurry to repair!!
Sounds like sweet plans. But you got alot of upgrades to do, like running hardline etc. You have a project ahead, its 1138pm friday and i gotta run so ill let someone else pick up where i left off.
Sounds like sweet plans. But you got alot of upgrades to do, like running hardline etc. You have a project ahead, its 1138pm friday and i gotta run so ill let someone else pick up where i left off.
thanks mike. yep since i sold my 'burban this has became quite a project. got the new motor in my blazer,got all the proformance upgrades switched over..got my 10k's mounted and tuned,built a mount for my leece's got the 320amp mounted but not wired yet. im gonna build a batterybox under the rear seat that will hold about a dozen batts...got quite a bit of work left but the end result will be worth it. the 32 pill probly wont be run everyday but i m gonna have it there if i wanna drop 6-7k and lock down the town..lol ill get it done. if you get time sometime mike, email me a list of what i need to get the bird job done...thansk jas.
- gun slinger
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bird
I know this is old and probably long done but i would like to amen the bird meter being a necessity , i was fortunate enough to start out with a bird before i even had any pills and just collected slugs along the way . They truly are the gold standard , i have a dual section and a couple of movements also , I'm a fanatic about watching my reflect some times more so than watts , if my match is stable i know ever thing else is OK ..
Re: bird meters in the mobile..worth the trouble???
Name 1 other meter with a remoteable sampler that can handle over 5000 watts?triple7wva wrote:i fianly got around to picking up the dual line section and slugs for my bird but i got to thinking..man is it realy worth the trouble to put it in the mobile? im gonna be running 2k constantly and at times up to 6k or 7k with my 32pill and ild like to be able to keep a moniter on things and i know a bird is the best way to do it.
ive got the so239's on on my bird rig,should i use the same 9913 coax for the jumpers or use something beter? i got a good deal on all of it. i bought the '43 off a buddy for $100 and i bough the dual line section and slugs off another buddy for $75.00. so i dont have much money in it and i wanna use it. any advice for hooking it up and what not. should i use the 43 case or get one of the dual meter panels that i seen on a sponsors site and hard mount them in my control pod that i built to hold my remotes and voltage regulators?? thanks in advance...jas.
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whats the critical damage point?
If its output power, then the amp should be fitted with an output power detector which drives a PIN diode attenuator on the RF input to limit the amplifier gain.
If its VSWR, then a reverse power detector with reasonable directivity is needed to drive same PIN diode attenuator.
The trouble with those PIN diodes is they reduce RF by reflecting it back to the source.
If its high temperature, then a bi-metal thermal cutoff (thermostat) should be installed on the heatsink, used to shut off power to a driver stage or keying circuit.
If its output power, then the amp should be fitted with an output power detector which drives a PIN diode attenuator on the RF input to limit the amplifier gain.
If its VSWR, then a reverse power detector with reasonable directivity is needed to drive same PIN diode attenuator.
The trouble with those PIN diodes is they reduce RF by reflecting it back to the source.
If its high temperature, then a bi-metal thermal cutoff (thermostat) should be installed on the heatsink, used to shut off power to a driver stage or keying circuit.
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Unlimited power permitted on CH1 to CH27 as per FCC CFR 47 part 18: 18.305(a) and 18.301
Unlimited power permitted on CH1 to CH27 as per FCC CFR 47 part 18: 18.305(a) and 18.301
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triple 7 you are on your way to some WATTS
its a whole new world
its almost just boring knowing that when you key up its gonna take the guy out
i hardly use my big box anymore just my radio then modulator then the driver amp
once you get a antenna system dialed in
its almost unstoppable
if you are running 2 hots or a Bounce back (front hot rear ground)
those 2 antenna systems or tough to beat out
i like the bounce back for DX
once you get your alts mounted then time to get you some big welding lead
2 or 3/0
there is a piece that screws onto the output of the main amp then the line section will screw onto it then your 2 sampler cables will connect to line section then run those lines up to dash or where ever
then as you stated from a sponsors site
you don't need the bird cage
just get you 2 bird replacement meters hook your cables to them
make sure you label them forward or watts
then label the other meter reflect
one slug will be pointing going out to antenna which will be the forward power 10k slug
the other slug will be pointing toward amp this will be the reflect 50 or 100 watt slug
triple 7 give me a pm with your email address
hope to make a contact with you when you get hooked up.
its a whole new world
its almost just boring knowing that when you key up its gonna take the guy out
i hardly use my big box anymore just my radio then modulator then the driver amp
once you get a antenna system dialed in
its almost unstoppable
if you are running 2 hots or a Bounce back (front hot rear ground)
those 2 antenna systems or tough to beat out
i like the bounce back for DX
once you get your alts mounted then time to get you some big welding lead
2 or 3/0
there is a piece that screws onto the output of the main amp then the line section will screw onto it then your 2 sampler cables will connect to line section then run those lines up to dash or where ever
then as you stated from a sponsors site
you don't need the bird cage
just get you 2 bird replacement meters hook your cables to them
make sure you label them forward or watts
then label the other meter reflect
one slug will be pointing going out to antenna which will be the forward power 10k slug
the other slug will be pointing toward amp this will be the reflect 50 or 100 watt slug
triple 7 give me a pm with your email address
hope to make a contact with you when you get hooked up.
A gun in the hand is better than a cop on the phone