C O P-P E R pipe ground system idea
- North Texas Mudduck
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C O P-P E R pipe ground system idea
check this out
fixing to run a 3/4 inch c o p p er tubing from the back of desk over to the wall down the wall and outside
stick out the outside wall about 3 inches with elbow down about 1 foot underground then with a tee going north and south at the ends of the 25 foot pipe a 8 foot ground rod will be in place
then where pipe comes out of wall a rod will be sit in place as well all joints soldered and flat strap used to connect to the ground rods
where the 3/4 inch pipe runs along back side of desk and down the wall all the equipment will be grounded to the setup.
just happen to pipe a new house and and had some extra pipe an joints left over
going to be running cop-per pipe in back yard as well for tower and beam
then connect the entire pipe setup together
what we think??????????
fixing to run a 3/4 inch c o p p er tubing from the back of desk over to the wall down the wall and outside
stick out the outside wall about 3 inches with elbow down about 1 foot underground then with a tee going north and south at the ends of the 25 foot pipe a 8 foot ground rod will be in place
then where pipe comes out of wall a rod will be sit in place as well all joints soldered and flat strap used to connect to the ground rods
where the 3/4 inch pipe runs along back side of desk and down the wall all the equipment will be grounded to the setup.
just happen to pipe a new house and and had some extra pipe an joints left over
going to be running cop-per pipe in back yard as well for tower and beam
then connect the entire pipe setup together
what we think??????????
A gun in the hand is better than a cop on the phone
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- bookie
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its a ground. kinda like the radiator idea but with pipe instead. the pipe would work fine even better if you drill some small holes and poor a little salt water in the pipe that is underground it will promote a better ground. i'm not sure where you are from, but just remember that the condensation could build up along the pipe in the house. i would end the pipe just outside and run a ground cable inside.
that's just my .02
nate
that's just my .02
nate
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and if i just ran a flat strap inside instead of c-o-p-p-e-r pipe then i could just have a buss bar and attach everything to that.
im thinking overkill i guess
where its comes outside then down just in front of the tee a ground rod will go down
then on the north bound pipe at the end would be another ground rod
then on the south bound end another ground rod
each ground rod would be about 25 to 30 feet apart
then one ground rod would be about 2 feet from inside equipment
im thinking overkill i guess
where its comes outside then down just in front of the tee a ground rod will go down
then on the north bound pipe at the end would be another ground rod
then on the south bound end another ground rod
each ground rod would be about 25 to 30 feet apart
then one ground rod would be about 2 feet from inside equipment
A gun in the hand is better than a cop on the phone
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- North Texas Mudduck
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I have records from the 30s where they took sheets of c-o-p-p-e-r mesh and buried it in carbon for whatever reason...this was used in a facility that required optimum lightning protection...
I have also seen them bury a "grid" of cop-per wire around big antenna arrays to serve as a ground...they were very paranoid we'd drill through one when we were conduction geotechnical drilling...
steved
I have also seen them bury a "grid" of cop-per wire around big antenna arrays to serve as a ground...they were very paranoid we'd drill through one when we were conduction geotechnical drilling...
steved
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same way on my last base antenna install
i removed top 3 inches of dirt to redo grass laid down like 5 rolls of wire looked like i was fixing to pour concrete
at each corner of wire i drove a ground rod in
each roll i brazed with torch then connected it to the tower and the radio equipment
i removed top 3 inches of dirt to redo grass laid down like 5 rolls of wire looked like i was fixing to pour concrete
at each corner of wire i drove a ground rod in
each roll i brazed with torch then connected it to the tower and the radio equipment
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I don't know what equipment your grounding but it sounds like a good ground for roof top lightening rods:-) I'm not a big electrical guy so all I did was run a additional #10 wire from my (already electrically grounded) homemade desk top electric distribution center, down through the floor to a cold water copperpipe with a clamp. My 200 amp electrical service panel is also grounded to my cold water copperpipes. My well is about 90 ft deep so a guess I have a good ground. The only place I use a ground rod is at the base of my tower.
Good luck with your grounding project.
Good luck with your grounding project.
*In a Galaxy far far away*
people used to ground to water pipes because they were a easy ground to find and make . But................. that was before plastic/vinyl plumbing components were available . now-a days you cant just do that . even though its against building codes in many areas many repairs and additions are done without proper inspections and some will mix in new plastic/vinyl pipe/fittings (its cheaper-quicker-easier and no fire hazzard). once you loose coppper to coppper contact your ground is gone .
my point is you have to optically (with your eyes) inspect every single inch of that potiental grounding pipe from the point of ground contact at the component you want grounded to the burrial point into the ground to make sure youre contacting something that will actually ground . thats impossible in a home that already has sheetrock walls . you also gotta check under the house too , maybe crawling on your back on dirt in a dark cramped area with creepy crawlies inspecting (hopefully) the correct pipe not to mention what crawls of jumps out when peeking behind the floor insulation while checking for contious coppper pipe .
im not trying to make a big deal of this ...just pointing out that to have a good ground you have to be sure to ground to something thats grounded to start with .
i wouldnt build a pipe system in my home to gound some electronics .
my point is you have to optically (with your eyes) inspect every single inch of that potiental grounding pipe from the point of ground contact at the component you want grounded to the burrial point into the ground to make sure youre contacting something that will actually ground . thats impossible in a home that already has sheetrock walls . you also gotta check under the house too , maybe crawling on your back on dirt in a dark cramped area with creepy crawlies inspecting (hopefully) the correct pipe not to mention what crawls of jumps out when peeking behind the floor insulation while checking for contious coppper pipe .
im not trying to make a big deal of this ...just pointing out that to have a good ground you have to be sure to ground to something thats grounded to start with .
i wouldnt build a pipe system in my home to gound some electronics .
Sounds like a good idea it is a fact u cant git anough ground lol i got grounds on every thang i have meters, driver, big box, antenna, radio, every thang lol it has been workin fine but i started feedin back threw the mike the other day i thang my coax goin to my antenna is goin bad changed all my jumpers goin to have to change my coax. 73's
Billy Workin These 500 Birds In The Bam Got On Down
Billy Workin These 500 Birds In The Bam Got On Down
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Not sure if I read correctly, but I think you stated you are going to put a T down, in the ground, about 25 feet long, with a ground rod at each end. That would be fine, but you need to get a real ground as close as you can to your station, and that means at least a 8ft rod unless you live on the coast. The copper pipe is ok, but a lot of times the soil can be dry up to several feet down, which is why you need the ground rod. One or 2 rods close to your station would be much better than having all that pipe in the ground with rods at each end.
Forgive me if I read the post wrong. :D
Forgive me if I read the post wrong. :D
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good reading thereBOOTYMONSTER wrote:heres some more info . i didnt read it all but this site has pretty good info .
[Please login or register to view this link]
thanks for the link
as to the t connector when i come out the wall of house i will go down with copper pipe 6 inches to foot but also i will have a copper rod at that point
then the copper pipe will run horizontal about 25 feet to the corner of the house then make a left then hook up to the base of tower along with copper pipes and rod in the ground
where it makes a left copper rod at that point
then then copper pipe will run horizontal another 25 feet the other direction then copper rod 8foot as well
hope i didnt make it sound more confusing
when i get the room repainted and start on the grounding i will take some pics
A gun in the hand is better than a cop on the phone