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Anyone run a hazer on their tower?

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linx

Anyone run a hazer on their tower?

#176717

Post by linx »

I think I just found a Glen Martin hazer locally for $150 with accessories. Anyone run a hazer? Until this point I have never thought about it b/c I didn't want to pay $400 for one, but for $150 I don't think I can go wrong. My tower is only 45 ft, but if I put a hazer up, I may go up 10-20 more ft with tower, and then hoist the beams up/down as the storms come and go.

I did some research, and there's not a lot said on here. I did some research on some ham sites and it appears to be 50/50 with folks that like them and folks that don't. I'll have a Cushcraft a4s with 40 meter kit, a Cushcraft 2m beam, and a Windom wire on the hazer probably. (i dunno..may put the wire on the tower and forget about hazering it).

Any thoughts? Is it a good deal?
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linx

#176719

Post by linx »

Also another concern is Coax and Rotor wire getting caught up raising the hazer. Anyone have troubles with this?
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PONY EXPRESS
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HAZER

#176722

Post by PONY EXPRESS »

Buddy here has one installed and well mine is sitting on the ground. It has been working well for him for almost a year now.... He has the extra wheel set on his. I put mine together as you can see with the wheel glides attached.
I plan on having my 50 ft 25g house bracketed to the house with 2 legs flush with house so we can get on the roof with hazer at roof level. It will be guyed at 50 ft level with separate guy bracket . I don't like the hazers guy bracket system and left that part off.




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Last edited by PONY EXPRESS on Jun 16 2008, 20:07, edited 3 times in total.
Its not a real radio unless it has tubes and USB/LSB on the front panel ....
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#176723

Post by PONY EXPRESS »

linx wrote:Also another concern is Coax and Rotor wire getting caught up raising the hazer. Anyone have troubles with this?
You have a separate cable coming off the hazer that you strap all your coax to so it won't get caught up in the hazer
Strap that cable off the farthest side of the hazer from tower and attached the other end at the bottom of tower. The coax will stay away from the tower as you crank it down.
Its not a real radio unless it has tubes and USB/LSB on the front panel ....
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216
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#176732

Post by 216 »

i use one on my 25g,finest thing since sliced bread
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since the picture was took the mast is now 16 ft.long(was 11) and i have egg insulators on the guys
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linx

#176747

Post by linx »

So you can guy it to the actual hazer? HRM...that gets my mind wondering.

Here's the scenario. My tower is 45 ft long. I may either leave it as is, or add another 10 ft Rohn 25 section. It's a 25G tower. I have it attached to my house at 12 ft with 2 legs like Pony was saying, and have it sitting in 500 lbs of concrete as well. I ran the tower unguyed for years with a vertical. I put a moonraker 4 up and ran it for a good while with no guys, but finally in February, I guyed it right before the spring thunderstorm season, and boy am I glad I did.

IF I put the hazer up, I am wanting to take the guys off like it used to be. I want to run a big beam, a 2m beam, and a standoff for a wire on the hazer, and crank it up top. When I know a storm is going to come through, I want to let it down and nestle it right above my house. I can get on the roof and work on the antennas this way.

Here is where the tower is attached to my house.
[albumimg]972[/albumimg]

And here is where the beam is (moonraker 4 as well).
[albumimg]970[/albumimg]

You can see where the guy wires stop in pic 1 and begin in pic 2. There is only 1 set of guy wires (3 wires) and I think I can do without them. I didn't know you can guy the actual hazer, which is cool. I don't know if I'd do that or not b/c I want to keep as much as possible away from my Windom on a standoff on the hazer.

You guys got the ideas flowing...

Pony Express, You said your friends is aluminum? I saw the pic you PM'd me with the antenna farm, and it holds up just fine? I am assuming you guys are using thrust bearings too, which I would use with mine. I don't have one now and I can already tell it's doing some wear and tear on my rotor.

One last question while I'm thinkin of it. Before you lower your hazers, you have to have your antenna array poined in the right direction to where the beams/masts won't hit the hazer/tower....is this correct thinking?
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216
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#176760

Post by 216 »

Also the pulley that came with the hazer was tossed in the garbage for a nice US made one from tractor supply with a brass bushing in the sheave.the aluminum one that came with mine was junk and wouldnt even turn.
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linx

#176788

Post by linx »

A hazer works a lot like an extension ladder doesn't it? The pulley/wire isn't supporting the hazer, but instead it has little locking legs like an extension ladder has. Am I right?
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HAZER INFO

#176806

Post by PONY EXPRESS »

linx wrote:A hazer works a lot like an extension ladder doesn't it? The pulley/wire isn't supporting the hazer, but instead it has little locking legs like an extension ladder has. Am I right?
Yes it must be pointed in a direction that the antenna doesn't get caught on the top of tower while lowering

Yes we have thrust bearing and we plan on guying ours on the tower just above the hazer itself at the very top and midway 20-25 ft The Top guy set will have a guy bracket assembly just above the hazer itself. That would be my 1st set we undo as we lower it down. Then when it reaches midway we will un due the lower set and move in toward the tower .
Yours would be house bracketed like mine will be for easy access from roof .My buddy has his guyed on the bottom of hazer and also below around the 30 ft level. Unhooking the cables on the bottom and moving them in toward the tower when he gets just above the bottom set of guys. Then he unhooks them and lowers it the rest of the way.
Local ham near me use to have a moonraker 6 on a hazer with 2 sets of guys way back in the 80's and his didn't have the wheel roller option. He said it worked great for him back then.

It helps to have non bent tower sections BENT SECTIONS causes lots of problems . The Hazer can only do as good of a job as the person who installed it allows it to do. Nice straight tower with no bends does wonders .

Every time it goes down a rung there is a cross bar support latch that has a spring loaded mechanism that you have to have the cable pulled to allow the hazer to drop down. Its a safety issue to keep it from dropping on your head should you snap the wire rope cable . Now should you ever snap that cable you would have to climb over the hazer if it was still up in the air to feed new wire rope cable through the hazer over the pulley and back down to the wrench so make sure that cable on wrench is in good shape before you use it on the hazer.

Yours being house bracketed you could get by with just 1 set of guys up to 50 ft .I still plan on guying mine midway up 25 ft above the house bracket and then above the hazer . I overkill everything and when there is a big storm Ill just crank it down midway down the tower just above the bottom guys . .
Its not a real radio unless it has tubes and USB/LSB on the front panel ....
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linx

#176823

Post by linx »

I was hoping this one was galvanized steel, but it looks like it's aluminum.

If I do it, I'm going to try and have it un-guyed and keep it down when not in use.
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